Direct Dye Q & A

The world of hair color has been getting a whole lot more colorful the past few years. Unicorn, Mermaid, Holographic – Your options are only limited by your imagination, and your stylists ability to manipulate the infinite possibilities hair color companies have provided. I personally LOVE all the crazy colors people are courageously choosing.  Why be normal if you can be a unicorn?
Here are the answers to some questions I am most frequently asked:

Q: What is the difference between regular hair dye and the new “crazy” colors?
A:  The “crazy” colors are “Direct Dyes”, meaning, they are “deposit-only” colors.  They stain the outer cuticle layer of the hair without going into the cortex of the hair shaft. 
Direct Dyes go straight out of the tube and on to the hair.  Because there is no mixing of the color with a processing solution (aka Peroxide), the cuticle layer of the hair stays down and intact resulting in a less permanent result. If the cuticle layer has been damaged from chemicals or heat – the direct dye would have less surface area to adhere to, resulting in a more temporary result.
Permanent colors are mixed with a processing solution that causes the cuticle layer to open and accept the dye into the cortex, permanently changing the hair’s color and structure.  After adequate processing time, the cuticle closes, locking in the deposited color.

Q: Can you remove a direct dye?
A: Yes. But not in the same way you would remove traditional dye or natural hair color.  If bleach is used, it causes the hair cuticle to open, pushing the dye further into the cortex, making the direct dye very difficult to remove. My advise —- be patient.  Let the color fade on it’s own for at least a month.  When there is only residual color left, let a professional choose one of the direct dye erasers formulated by the same manufacturer of the dye used. 

Q: What is the best way to keep the direct dye color vibrant:
A: Begin with using the highest quality dye and leave it on to process for at least one hour, preferably two.
Stay away from chlorine, sulfates, and products with alcohol.
Wash your hair as infrequently as possible.
Try not to use heat when blow drying or styling.
Keep your hair out of the sun. 

Q: Best rules for at home coloring?
A:  1. BE CAREFUL!!! The dye stains everything!  2. Rinse with the coldest water you can stand.  3. Wear gloves and have a friend help you. 4. Put vaseline or coconut oil on the skin around your hairline to protect it from the dye (Please refer to the first rule) 5. Make sure you start with clean, dry hair. Use a clarifying shampoo to get rid of any buildup. 6. Remember, if your hair isn’t very light to start, the color will not be the same as what is in the tube.   If there is yellow in your hair and you put blue dye over it, your results will be more like green (blue + yellow = green).  If there is orange in your hair and you put pink over it, your results will be more like peach (orange + pink = peach). If you want blue, but there’s red in your hair – you’re getting purple.  (I think you get the picture.)

I hope this helps….. Leslie xoxo